CONSTRUCTA Built-in oven Guide d'installation Page 23
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Noté. / 5. Basé sur avis des utilisateurs
Pompeii Oven Instructions
© Forno Bravo, LLC 2007. All Rights Served. Ver. 1.2 23
Next, cut (12) lengths of 2"x4" that will serve as the legs
that hold the bottom frame in place inside the stand
opening. You will use 1/4" shims to accurately set the top
of the frame. The top of the 2”x4” frame should be about
1" below the top of the stand (to allow for the 3/4" plywood
and shims). Measure and cut your 2”x4” legs accordingly -
- stand height, minus 2 1/2" (1 1/2" for the 2”x4” and 1" for
the plywood and shim).
3.2. The form support ready for the tray.
Set two 2" x4" legs at each corner and one in the middle of
the span, then lay the frame on top. Place shims between
the legs and frame, and then tap the shims to raise the
frame up until its top is 11/16" (the true thickness of 3/4"
plywood) from the top of the stand. After the bottom tray is
built, you will add more 2“x4” legs to support the center of
the tray (Photo 3.3).
3.3. Form supports.
The Bottom Tray
Cut the two sheets of plywood lengthwise to fit into the
opening (3/8" shorter so that it will easily come out later),
and lay it on the frame. Tape the joint with masking tape.
Set your last two 2"x4"legs supporting a 2"x4" on its side
directly under the joint, which will support the weight of the
wet hearth while it is curing. Shim to level. You have
finished the bottom of your form. (Photo 3.4)
To prevent the concrete from bonding to your forms you
can either get a commercially available release agent
(usually a spray) or use a homegrown method of
vegetable oil, which may render the plywood useless for
other projects. Another option would be to cover the tray
with a 10 mil plastic sheet.
3.4. Plywood set in place.
The Side Forms
Next, build the sides of the form using 2”x8" lumber to fit
around the block stand edges. This frame forms the sides
of your 7 1/2 " insulating hearth. The 2”x8” board will be
set at the top of the outer edge of the block wall, and will
need to be supported by 2”x4” legs and shims similar to
the tray. When placing the forms there should be a
distance of 7 ½ inches from the top of the form to the top
of the hollow blocks.
The form should be held in place by ratcheting cargo
straps to prevent bulging of the sides. You can also hold
- Forno Bravo 1
- Pompeii Oven™ Plans 1
- WARNING 2
- Table of Contents 3
- Introduction 4
- Getting Started 5
- How the Plans Work 5
- The History of Brick Ovens 6
- Building the First Oven 7
- Fired Ovens 9
- Overview 10
- 5. Vent 11
- 6. Vent Arch and Door 11
- 7. Chimney 11
- 8. Dome Insulation 11
- 9. Oven Enclosure 11
- 10. Finish 12
- Oven Dimensions 13
- Top Elevation 14
- Front Elevation 14
- Cross Section: Igloo 14
- Pompeii Oven Instructions 15
- 1. Foundation 16
- Other Considerations 17
- Hints and Tips 18
- 2. The Oven Stand 19
- Variations 20
- Tips and Hints 21
- 3. Framing the Hearth 22
- The Bottom Tray 23
- The Side Forms 23
- 4. Pouring the Hearth 25
- 5. Setting the Cooking Floor 27
- 6. Starting the Oven Dome 29
- About Your Brick 30
- Brick Cutting 30
- The Oven Opening Dimensions 31
- 7. Building the Dome 32
- Subsequent Courses 33
- 8. Building the Oven Opening 35
- 9. Finishing the Oven Dome 37
- Closing in the Oven 38
- The Final Keystone 38
- Option: More Thermal Mass 38
- 10. Oven Vent 40
- 3. A Cast Concrete Vent 41
- Tips and Hint 41
- 11. Arch and Door 43
- Other Door Design Options 44
- 12. Attaching the Chimney 45
- Chimney Height and Size 46
- Spark Arrestor/Chimney Caps 46
- 13. Oven Insulation 47
- 14. Enclosure Design Styles 49
- 15. Igloo Enclosure 52
- 16. Walled Enclosures 54
- Tips and Techniques 55
- 17. Curing Your Oven 56
- Material List 42" Oven 58
- Material List 36" Oven 59
- Appendix 2. Brick Primer 61
- Insulating Firebrick 62
- Appendix 3. Why the Pompeii 63
- Oven Plans are Free 63
- Thermal Mass 64
- Insulation 64
- Appendix 5. Wood-Fired Oven 66
- Anatomy 66
- Appendix 6. High Heat Mortar 67
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